Fires are a pleasurable, old-fashioned pastime but they are not necessary for cooking or warmth. The HMG camera holster bag worked really well, I had it rigged up with some carabiners, a cord directly to the camera and a bag strap so there were a couple redundant points to prevent the camera from going free - which actually came into play once, saving the rig from smashing on the rocks and/or rolling off the mountain. No matter if you have never climbed before, our instructors are prepared to help you learn mountaineering from the ground up. We lose precious daylight hours and we expose ourselves to quickly shiftingmountainconditions and weather. I was close to just planning a repeat of the alpine rock weekend in Mazama. Stop here for night if c2c is not a goal. Times: 2-3 hr trailhead to camp, 7-8 . Also recommended for mid-summer climbs. In retrospect 2x 50m 8.9s would have been equally as effective and much lighter. Meet at our Guide Hut in Sedro-Woolley, WA. Mt Shuksan - Fisher Chimney's + SE Ridge. Some examples of snack foods include dried meats (salami), jerky (turkey, beef, fish), tuna fish, cheese, crackers, bagels, dried fruit, nuts, chocolate, candy bars, gummy candy, cookies, energy bars and trail mix. Lake Ann Trail through the NCNP border: Clear, easy and straightforward, NCNP Border to the top of the chimney: Also clear, rock much more solid than I thought, rap stations had good slings and rings. Trail may be snow covered in early season. The Mountain Bureau LLC operates under Special Use Permits with the Mt. Please prepare your meals prior to your climb. Monday Friday / 9:00 5:00 PT, 3 Day Climb Washington State 9,131 ft. You will need two (2) breakfasts, enough lunch and snack food for three (3) days, and two (2) dinners. The highest point on the mountain is a three-sided peak . It is longer, steeper, and involves more technical terrain than the standard Sulphide Glacier Route on Mount Shuksan. I didnt want to overburden myself so I made some judicious cuts to my clothing kit, accepting the fact that if the weather window collapsed it would be immediate cause to turn back. To safely enjoy this climb, you must be able to meet these benchmark times while maintaining reserves of strength. Above Fisher Chimneys. Instant noodle soups and rice are also popular. Shuksan taken from the Summit of neighborin 1. From June 1 to November 15, allowed hard-sided food canisters are required for camping below the vegetation line in Boston Basin, Eldorado, and Sulphide Glacier cross-country zones. We have no idea if we were lucky or if there were several remaining permits left behind. Take I-5 North towards Burlington to Cook Road in Skagit County. Cold drinking water will be available in high camp. ), wearing mountain boots no less. We moved quickly down the Sulphide without crampons as the snow was very soft by now. We cannot overstate how critical it is for you to bring foods that you enjoy eating. Our guides are dedicated mountain professionals who work hard to ensure your success and wellbeing on the mountain. Approach Time to Camp: 5-6 hours. Written By Amber Chang. 98284, Download the official NPS app before your next visit. Story captured by Kristen Connolly On July 7-8, a team of five climbers headed up the Fisher Chimneys route on Mount Shuksan in the North Cascades. After driving through an hour of rain, we finally rolled in to Glacier. The Mountaineers teaches skills and leads outdoor activities for all ages and levels in the Pacific Northwest. Date changes are subject to availability and apply only to the current climbing season. With over 40 years of history on the mountain RMI is . All balances are due 120 days prior to climb start date and can be paid by check, wire transfer, or by credit card with a surcharge of 3%. The Upper Curtis glacier was shedding ice and rock all evening into the night, an excellent reminder of the ever present objective hazards and motivation to stay efficient moving under the cliff bands to the left the next day. Solid holds all over the chimneys make for fun scrambling. All scheduled programs can also be booked with custom dates and itineraries. Although food must still be stored securely from wildlife, canisters are not required for camping or bivying on glaciers or on high routes along ridge lines. updates, images and resources. Shuksan: This is a notch harder than the standard route on Mt. Weather can be severe in the North Cascades. Shuksan. We recommend Signature Travel Insurance. July 3 July 5, 2023 1 spot left Johannesburg Mountain in the background during an ascent of the Torment-Forbidden-Traverse Photo: Mark Allen. This non-volcanic North Cascades Peak offers access to a wide span of glaciated and rock terrain for climbing. Camped at Ann lake. Chimneys scramble was easier than I expected, I brought some rock pro but didn't use it at all. Shuksan. . Led by guides Zeb Blais and Brandon Seymore, the climb went smoothly with fit climbers, excellent weather and great route conditions. Climb 3rd and 4th class alpine rock up the spectacular Fisher Chimneys to the summit of Mount Shuksan. Return times on the final day of the program are difficult to predict. The Fisher Chimneys portion of the climb ascend the imposing West face of the mountain, skirting the . Mountaineers Books is a registered trademark of The Mountaineers, a 501(c)(3) nonprofit organization. Mount Shuksan Fisher Chimneys Day by Day Day 1. This initially caused some delays waiting for them on the first couple pitches, however by the last pitch they were fully ahead, and we were our own limiting factor. If you are on snow or bare rock, you must resort to the final option: blue bag it! We reached the Sulphide glacier just as morning twilight was beginning. THE FISHER CHIMNEYS ITINERARY The trip will start on Day 1 at 8 am at the Glacier Ranger Station in Glacier, WA. Mount Shuksan: Fisher Chimneys. The small town of Sedro-Woolley, The Gateway to the North Cascades, is approximately 70 miles and a 1.5-hour drive from Seattle or Bellevue. The balance can be paid by check, or credit card. Lodging in Burlington and Sedro-Woolley, Washington. Mount Shuksan has become the iconic face of the rugged North Cascades of Washingon, with its picturesque north face a ubiquitous presence on calendars and souveniers. Rising to a height of 9,131 feet, Mt. Shuksan, 9131FT / 2783m . The team will return to camp, pack up, followed by a full decent to the trailhead; 8.7 Miles, +3,100 Elevation Gain, -6,900 Elevation Loss, 12+ Hours Travel Time, 35-45 lb Pack Weight, Reserved Permit for Backcountry Sulphide Zone, Overnight camping accommodations on the first night of your trip, All breakfasts and dinners on the mountain, Overnight accommodations on the last night of your trip, No previous mountaineering experience requiredModerate to strenuous trekking and climbing at elevations above 8,000Travel over moderate glacial terrainRock Scrambling in boots or cramponsAbility to carrying a heavy pack (35-to-40 lbs)Overnight camping in tents. Meal schedule: (B) Breakfast (L) Lunch (D) Dinner. 1670 S Burlington Blvd This route delivers engaging movement and incredible scenery from start to finish. A couple parties came through the upper Bivy, including some climbing rangers who did their usual permit checks. Traverse right across a heather slope, and out onto a small ridge (dry bivy site). Shuksan is the center piece. If you have never rock climbed before, we strongly recommend that you participate in one of our rock climbing courses before climbing the Fisher Chimneys: Intro to Alpine Rock Climbing We strongly recommend that climbers book a hotel night following the final day of their itinerary and schedule departure flights on the following day. If you must leave a piece of webbing during a rappel, remove one or more of the ratty slings already in place, and use a natural color webbing that will not be visible from a distance. Our summit day starts early with a pre-dawn alpine start. The glaciers in route to your objective are watershed to major spillways feeding the highest degree of flora biodiversity of any American national park. Day 2. Generally considered a challenging route. We left Seattle about 5:30. am, to ensure that were the first people at the ranger station for Price XC. We scramble 600 feet of 3rd class rock to the summit, where we enjoy fantastic views of the North Cascades and Mount Baker. Related climbs: Mount Shuksan Sulphide Glacier, Mount Shuksan Fisher Chimneys,Forbidden Peak, Mount Baker North Ridge, Day 1 Hike to High Camp If I would have known, I would have brough a new one. Fisher Chimneys Route - Mt. This left enough space to pack extra climbing gear just in case I had to build bail anchors, climb technical ice, or raise/lower us out of a situation. Education Get all the details on our educational programs, including our Basic Climbing Education Program (BCEP), Wilderness First Aid (WFA), and much more. Baker..and a very abrupt climate change from cool and damp to hot and dry. Climbing Time: 7-9 hours. We all hit the road by about 2pm and by 6:30 we were all sitting at Chair 9 in in Glacier with permit in hand eating our last civilized meal before hitting the trail. Close Menu. We will get your pack to a comfortable weight and have time to answer any questions you may have.Day 1 - Travel to the trailhead, near Artist Point at 4,600, in the heart of the North Cascades. Upon receiving your registration, Northwest Alpine Guides will email you complete PreClimb information, including a gear list specific to your itinerary and other departure details. Having two ropes was great, but the 55m limitation from having a 60m and a 50m resulted in slightly imperfect linkups between every other rap station. Dinner: Freeze-dried dinners are easy to prepare but do not always taste good and may affect your stomach. The Guide Hut serves as a meeting location, rental shop and retail store for guests of Northwest Alpine Guides. We ate and organized our packs for summit day, finishing up around 6:30pm. A two-day ascent of Mount Shuksan (9,131') via the Fisher Chimneys on August 16, 2020. Route and glacier conditions undergo significant changes during the course of a season. This is an advanced level climb suitable for climbers in excellent physical condition with solid backpacking skills and prior glacier and rock climbing experience. You will do it all: hike through amazing scenery, climb a complicated series of chimneys, camp in an amazing setting, cross several glaciers and climb the spectacular summit pyramid at the top of Mount Shuksan. 6-ish miles and a few hours later, after digging deep into our energy reserves, we arrived back at the cars at 12:30am; 20 hours and 42 minutes after we had stepped onto the Upper Curtis Glacier that morning. Sunset was worth interrupting my sleep for a half hour for photos. Our climb begins with easy rock climbing up a series of chimneys to a short ice pitch known as Winnies Slide. Shuksan is one of the most photographed mountains in the world. I made the call to head up to the higher bivy. No trip planning is complete until you consider the most important element of any climb: returning safely and without injury. At the top of Hells Highway, we put the crampons on evaluated the slope. This is not a blanket requirement for the entire park or for all portions of these zones, and was purposely limited, after two years of internal review and public comment, to areas of high use by both humans and wildlife, where wildlife has become habituated to getting human food, and other methods of food storage were ineffective, improper, or impossible. Mount Shuksan via the Fischer Chimneys Approach. Our alpine guides will meet you for team introductions, gear check, and group gear distribution. These snacks can be critical for maintaining a steady supply of energy while moving up and down the mountain. I made sure to follow the main upper route on the way down, which involved more 3rd class down climbing than I expected. We recommend training for Mount Shuksans Fisher Chimneys Route at least 3-6 months in advance. Shuksan. Regardless, we just barely made it to the bottom of the very last scramble as evening twilight faded to true nighttime. Climbing and wilderness rangers are on hand to provide advice, answer questions, or assist in trip planning. Our Northwest programs begin at the date, time and meeting location listed in the itinerary in your PreClimb Information. The team then hikes south on Lake Ann Trail over Austin Pass (4,700 ft). On this trip we will attempt the Fisher Chimney's . Shuksan rises in Whatcom County, Washington immediately to the east of Mount Baker, and 11.6 miles south of the Canada-US border. I think that the standard pitched climbing approach gave Joe and Rob a chance to relax at the belays though, which helped keep our pace consistent even if it was a little slow. LINKSContact UsThe Bureau BlogPrivate Guiding RatesTerms and ConditionsFair-Trade-Living-WageOur GuidesPartnersAdvocacyOur PilotsTrip InsuranceFitness TrainingCOVID-19 InformationFor Guides, Festivals & Special EventsMazama Rock FestIndex Climbers FestivalCascadia SplitfestRockToberOutdoors@. After the clinics the team will apply their new skills with a move to high camp; 1.5 Mile, +1,500 Elevation Gain, 4 Hours Skills Session, with 2 Hours of Travel TIme.Day 3 - Summit Day! Log in and send us Engineering. In 1975 Joe Horiskey led RMI's first guided ascent of Denali and since then RMI has led over 300 Expeditions of Denali. 1. Snow Trad, Ice, Snow, Alpine . Log in and send us Forbidden is a significant step up from Shuksan for a lot of reasons. Not a bad considering it was Joe's first ever climbing experience of any kind! Unfortunately, he hadn't been on the previous trip, so he had yet to do any sort of real-world climbing at all. Rockfall is a concern in the chimneys. Mount Shuksan's West Face during Winter. Gully had good rap slings and rings. The combination of the other party and eventually our own pace resulted in us being at the summit around 11am; I hadnt imagined being so close to our turnaround time. Upper Chichester Township Permits are: Building, Electrical, Fire Protection, Mechanical, and Plumbing. They are also illegal in all crosscountry zones. Climb rock, ice, steep snow, and cross a massive glacier on this four-day climb of one of the most picturesque mountains in North America. After a short time, we began the descent. The Fisher Chimneys Route demands approximately 6,000 feet of elevation gain from trailhead to summit. Shuksan is one of the most photographed mountains in the world. If there is soil, dig a small cathole 6 8 inches deep and bury waste. Both Joe and Rob looked at the first section of class 4 and seemed like they wanted to ask if we were going to rope up, so I quickly started scrambling to keep the momentum going and show that it wasnt as intimidating as it looked. Beginning at Austin Pass, the Lake Ann Trail enters the Mount Baker Wilderness as it switchbacks down into the headwaters of the Swift Creek Drainage. No summit is ever worth injury or death. Icon of a mountain with a flag planted on top. Shuksan. This will help reduce smells and animal visits to your camp. In any case, we made the most of it, headed up to Klipchuck campground after work on Friday Aug 12th and had a great weekend, doing some cragging on Saturday and sent Spontaneity Arete on Sunday. Baker and Fisher Chimneys on Mt. I didnt realize at the time, but the low route was certainly the least used.and by least, I mean probably almost never. COPYRIGHT 2014-2022 THE MOUNTAIN BUREAU. Note: Proper hardshell rain gear is required on all trips. Consider the experience of your party and ensure you have adequately experienced climbers to supervise/assist lessexperienced climbers throughthe bottlenecks and rockfall hazards presented on this climb. For more info about current coverage plans and quotes please visit. We set up our tents near the toe of the White Salmon Glacier at 6,700 feet. Kyle and I climbed Shuksan via the classic Fisher Chimneys route + SE rib on Sunday. We do not accept participants under 15 years old due to insurance and liability reasons. At about 2 mi, cross small creek and hike up small stream and over ridge southeast (4,800 ft) to Lake Ann. Moving more slowly can be dangerous. Depends on, Priority for the Everett basic students others open up on July 1st . The main parking lot was full so we parked in the overflow lot. Our guides will instruct the desired skills needed to climb a glacier to the summit. Date changes may be requested at any time up to 45 days prior to your departure date for a $100.00 fee per person. All programs are subject to the Mountain Bureau LLC Terms & Conditions, MOUNTAIN BUREAU LLC 1752 Northwest Market Street Box 414, Seattle, Washington, United States +1.6-one-9.432.546-two contact@mountainbureau.com. Video Resource: What to Expect the Morning of the Climb. Please note that Seattle traffic is worsening and driving times from Seattle and Seattle-Tacoma International Airport may be significantly longer. Please check the backcountry permits page for more information, including when and how permits are obtained. . This route is the one most often seen on photographs of Lake Ann and Shuksan. Shuksans Fisher Chimneys Route and summit pyramid. The policy is intended to protect participants who have otherwise committed time and resources to the departure. North Cascades Alpine Climbing. Mountain climbing can be unpredictable weather conditions can change in a moment and one wrong step can lead to an injury. Ascend Hell's Highway then the Sulphide Glacier to the base of the summit pyramid, which can be climbed by the right skyline or by a gully up the center (exposed class 4, 600 ft). Despite the fact that Hells Highway was steeper than Winnies slide, the darkness helped mask the sense of exposure so I was able to just keep our party moving up the slope without needing to pull out pickets and do a running belay. Fisher Chimneys 3 Day Ascent. . Day 3: Breakfast. It is not open to the public, and does not serve customers outside of scheduled operating hours. With the second weekend rapidly approaching I had to figure out what our objective would be. Rated class 4, you will be in near-vertical scrambling circumstances. Bivy sites just below the Chimneys proper are snow free. 1. Video Resource: Mountain Snack and Lunch Ideas. There is some exposure to the bottom right, and in this instance the backed-up rappel was definitely a good choice for tired climbers pushing through a very long summit day. One of the other group members (Rob) was available for this weekend, making it a party of 3. As we headed downhill into the darkness, the flies seemed to dissipate, and we made good time to Lake Ann. Payments Policy. After three failed off-season attempts, we finally wised up and went a. Youll save yourself energy and youll protect the wilderness. This put my summit time goal 9am. It is probably the most well-known of the non-volcanic peaks of the Cascade Range, a vivid reminder that the northern reaches of the range harbor more than giant snowy domes like . Previous GPS tracks had both a high and low route around the cliff bands leading into the chimneys proper. Log in and send us After some snacks and refilling our water, we set off for the descent. June 26-27. Running, swimming, cycling and other sports may help you prepare for your climb, but they are usually not sufficient. Climb easy snow and rock, then climb 150 ft up a slope of steep snow or ice (Winnie's Slide, incorrectly labeled on the map), and cross through the ridge onto the Upper Curtis Glacier. Joe and rob looking a little tiredconsidering that Rob had never climbed even a single pitch of anything before today, Joe had never been on a glacier before, and I had was leading my first ever glacier-rock combination alpine route this was a huge success! You will need two (2) breakfasts, enough lunch and snack food for three (3) days, and two (2) dinners. Please note that a minimum of two participants is required to guarantee each departure at the advertised price. If you are in rocky or mineral soil without other good options, bury your waste in a shallow hole. Burlington, WA 98233. Three or four 15-minute lunch & snack breaks during the hike to high camp. We are a committed equal opportunity outdoor recreation service provider. Backcountry permits are designed to prevent over-crowding at some sites and to disperse visitors throughout the park at a rate which is less damaging to wilderness resources such as native vegetation, soils, and wildlife. Northwest Alpine Guides will provide the group with hot cooking water for breakfast and dinner. One day push in about 13 hours.Check http://www.mountainrefugees.com for . If you think bears never travel above treeline, think again: bears have been seen trekking the Quien Sabe Glacier in Boston Basin, glissading on the Neve glacier, and swimming in a sub-alpine lake near Mt. This route is the one most often seen on photographs of Lake Ann and Shuksan. From the top of the Slide, moderate climbing across three glaciers (White Salmon, Upper Curtis and Sulphide) leads to the foot of the summit pyramid, which we ascend via a 3rd class scramble up the central gully, or 5th class rock climbing on the pyramids Southeast Ridge. Protect your gear and keep animals wild by urinating on bare rock, far away from camping areas, and by keeping salty gear and other food items out of reach of wildlife (use a bear canister, or hang food from tree limbs or large boulders). This party had the same intentions so in the end they never really got ahead of us. Trailhead: Shannon Ridge, 2500 ft. High Camp: 6500 ft. Camp to Summit: 4-5 hours, 2700 ft. gain. Turn left onto F & S Grade Road, From State Highway 20 East, at the traffic circle, take the 2nd exit onto Cook Road (after the Walgreens), Follow Cook Road to Borseth Road in Sedro-Woolley, 7 min (4.3 mi) Shuksan via Shannon Ridge or Lake Ann, and many other climbs). Aug 3. I also wanted to ensure I packed my mirrorless camera with a couple lenses this time; Id skimped on photos my last few trips to focus on pushing my climbing grades but I missed the documentation aspect of the outings. After that, climbing permits are obtained on a first-come, first-serve basis and subject to limited availability. $300.00 deposit includes a $200.00 non-refundable registration fee, due with application. This photo courtesy of Joe. The team will start with a welcome meeting, run through a group gear-check and program orientation. A one hour climbing skills training will be taught. Note: Please read our Mountaineering Boots and Crampons guides for recommendations. Climbing Time: 4 hours. You may also consider bringing a cold meal of dried meat, bread, pizza, or sandwiches. Glacier and rock climbing experience of any American national park Mount Shuksans Fisher Chimneys August... A season ( D ) dinner safely enjoy this climb, but they are not necessary cooking. 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